Suzanne Lossi, Curator
October 1998
An exhibit of traditional trajes from the pueblos of the Guatemalan highlands, as well as photographs of Guatemalan textiles and dyemaking processes. See below for details about each traje in the exhibit.
According to the Popol Vuh, sacred book of the quiche Maya, the gods created the earth and then fashioned humans from corn to be its guardians. From that day on, the lives of the inhabitants of the Guatemalan highlands have been linked to the land, its veneration and the cultivation of corn which they regard as the staff of life. The fertile valleys and upland basins are the home of diverse indigenous groups, the majority of which are descended from ancient Maya traders. Today, the Mayan way of life is a complex blend of pre-Hispanic religious practices and Christian ritual; of timeless agricultural techniques and European-inspired dances; of ancient weaving designs and Spanish silks and lace. Ancient and modern tradition combined with the colors of the landscape serve as inspiration of the typical garments of the Mayans of Guatemala.
Tejutla
"PLACE OF DYERS", is the meaning of Tejutla. This is a village in the district of San Marcos located at the west of the republic. The gala outfit worn by the young women of this town, is a fine example of Mayan textile. The blouse is woven in two panels with small geometric designs in contrasting purple thread. The skirt is woven with yellow and green colored thread and the band of complimentary colors is worn on the head.
San Pedro Ayampuc
This village is situated in the central district of Guatemala. The women of San Pedro Ayampuc wear this "huipil", or blouse, woven on a pre-Columbian loom using the tapestry technique. It is made of two loom widths of white cotton with brocades in red, green and blue lines which divide window motifs representative of the beautiful colonial churches of the town. The tubular skirt or "corte" is woven with a foot loom, with blue cotton. It has delicate white lines and is tied with a wide sash embroidered by hand and finished with brightly colored virgin wool "buttons".
San Juan Sacatepequez
Sacatepequez means "Mountain of Grass" is located in the district of Guatemala. This daily outfit has a huipil or blouse made of two woven panels with orange, purple and green . Its stylized animal designs are repeated in both the sash and "Tzute", or head dress. It is complemented by an indigo blue "corte" or skirt.
San Antonio Aguas Calientes
San Antonio Aguas Calientes, located near the colonial town of Antigua, is in the district of Sacatepequez. This daily costume has a finely brocaded huipil with flower and bird motifs.. The huipil detail work is identical on both sides making it easily recognizable as coming from the area of San Antonio Aguas Calientes.
Santiago Atitlán
Before the conquest, the Tzutujils ruled the western shores of Atitlan and the lucrative cacao groves on the Pacific coast. Santiago Atitlan rests at the base of the Toliman and San Pedro Volcanoes. In the Nahuatl language, Atitlan means "place of water" (atl water and titlan place). This ceremonial outfit of the women of the village, has a "huipil" made of two widths of loomed fabric, is a woven cotton design with vertical red and purple lines. It is accented with bird, geometric and aquatic motifs. The round collar is ornamented with silk appliques and is worn with a multicolored "corte" and red head dress trimmed in purple, orange and green.
Tamahu
This ancient town is located in a valley in the northern highlands of Alta Verapaz. The huipil is made with three widths of loomed fabric. The central red panel has geometric, butterfly, bird, tree and star motifs. The red "corte" is gathered at the waist. Married women wear this type of head dress called a "Bac-Bal". Its design is based on the color and shape of the coral snake and is thought to be a symbol of protection.
San Juan Cotzal
Situated in the Cuchumatanes mountains and known for its favorable weather, San Juan Cotzal means "Let's go to warm climates". This gala dress, which women wear on special occasions, has a "huipil" fashioned with bird and geometric motifs. The neckline is round and has four truncated leaves that correspond to the highest and lowest points of the sun in the horizon during certain times of the year. It is worn with a green "corte", wide sash, shawl worn over the arm, and a small panel head dress.
San Pedro Soloma
Soloma, located in the valley of Montes Cuchumatanes in Huehuetenango, rests on an ancient lake bed prone to earthquakes. The look of the long tunic is much like that worn by ancient Mayan women. Local women wear unusual white huipils embroidered across the bodice with circular designs featuring various stitching styles and colors. Their head dress is an identical white cloth decorated in the same manner that is said to protect women from the "evil eye".
San Martín Sacatepequez
Popularly known as San Martín Chile Verde, this Mam village lies to the north of the Chicabal Volcano. Abandoned by its inhabitants during the 1902 eruption of the Santa Maria volcano, San Martin refused to die and is one of the most interesting communities in the western highlands. Home of Quiche, and Mam Maya, some of Guatemala's most colorful "trajes" or traditional garments come from this area. This red loom woven huipil is decorated with bird, corn and candelabra motifs. The head piece is rolled and worn with a "tzute" over the top.
Todos Santos Cuchumatán
Cuchumatán, meaning "Gathering of Mountains", is in the district of Huehuetenango. Huehuetenango is about 75 percent Maya, although mostly Mam, there are other nations such as the Chuj, Kanjobal, Popti and jacaltec all which can be identified by their distinctive dress. This costume is made up of an indigo "corte" held in place by a woolen sash. The huipil has a round neck which and is decorated with woven designs as well as embroidered work. It is worn with a woven bag over the shoulder.
