Friday 2 November 4-8 PM
Newcomb College Center for Research on Women
4:00 PM Exhibit Preview
5:30 PM Lecture by John Martin Taylor: "The Creolization of America"

Anna E. Many Lounge, Second floor, Newcomb College Center for Reserch on Women

John Martin Taylor is author of several books on Carolina low-country cookery and creator of Hoppin' John's culinary website. The lecture will be followed by a reception co-hosted by Slow Food New Orleans, featuring Louisiana wild game and fishes in the authentic style of Mary Land prepared by New Orleans women chefs.
In a very real sense, Lena Richard and Mary Land defined New Orleans and Louisiana cuisine in the twentieth century.
Lena Richard Richard, an African American, operated several New Orleans restaurants beginning in the 1920s. She also ran a catering business and, in the 1930s, a cooking school. She was a television cooking show pioneer; WDSU featured her program from 1947-49. Through the intercession of James Beard, Houghton Mifflin published Richards' New Orleans Cook Book in 1939.

Ms. Land had a long time interest in cuisine, including its relationship to culture, folklore, and history. As a child, she had been taught not only hunting and fishing but also the great need to conserve and appreciate our land and its abundance.  As an adult, she became a published and prize-winning poet, as well as a writer for the Louisiana Conservation Review.  Her writing on many subjects appeared in a national magazines and newspaper articles.  She also had a syndicated newspaper column called All Outdoors which she co-authored with Arthur Van Pelt.  She brought this wide background to  both her culinary books -- Louisiana Cookery (1954) and New Orleans cuisine (1969).  Like Lena Richard, she corresponded with James Beard and her books received national recognition.

Richard on WDSU
Land with fish
Mary Land
More than any other cookbook authors, these two women influenced the cooking of New Orleans in the period of 1930 - 1970, yet today they are largely forgotten. Their daughters and granddaughters have lent significant personal effects for this exhibit, so we may all become reacquainted with these powerful personalities.
The Culinary Symposium and the exhibit are made possible in part by a grant from the Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities.
From New Orleans Cuisine by Mary Land
Boudin Rouge
Grind cheeks of fat pig. Add four cups of blood. Mix one cup of cream with two cups cooked rice, seasoned with a little sage, crushed bay leaves, red and black pepper, salt, and a little thyme. Pour the mixture of all ingredients into casings and tie at each end. Simmer in stock or water until done (about three hours).
Boudin Blanc
Boil sufficient pork. Grind and add seasoning of garlic, sage, celery salt, red and black pepper, ground onions, ground green peppers, and parsley. Mix well and add one or more cups of cooked rice. Add enough bouillon to soften. Stuff in casing and tie at both ends. Simmer in water until done. This takes only a little while. Dry wel; fry when ready to serve.

All boudins are packed in sheeps entrails which have been cleaned, washed, and scalded.

From New Orleans Cook Book by Lena Richard
Gumbo File
1 cup chopped chicken meat 3 teaspoons file
2 1/2 quarts chicken stock 1 medium sized onion
1/2 dozen crabs 1 clove of garlic
1 pound lake shrimp 3 tablespoons flour
1/2 pound or 1 slice raw ham 4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste
Fry ham and shrimp in cooking oil until ham is a golden brown. Remove ham and shrimp from fat. Make a roux with flour and fat, add onions and cook until a golden brown. Add crabs, chicken, ham and shrimp, stock and all seasonings except salt and pepper. Cook over a slow fire until liquid has reduced to about 1 1/2 quarts. Season with salt and pepper and, just before serving, stir in file. It is customary to serve Gumbo File with rice.

Return to Fall 2001 Schedule

Return to NCCROW Archives